In-Depth Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial – A Masterpiece of Horological Art and Zodiac Inspiration
When I first heard about Vacheron Constantin’s latest Métiers d’Art collection, called the “Tribute to the Celestial,” I wasn’t immediately excited. Not because of any flaw in the watch itself, but because the entire concept revolves around astrology — an area I’ve never really cared about. I don’t follow horoscopes or Zodiac signs, and the idea of choosing a watch based on my birth sign felt somewhat gimmicky. Yet, given the rare opportunity to be the first journalist in the Americas to experience this new twelve-sign Zodiac-themed collection, I decided to visit the Vacheron Constantin boutique in New York and see it for myself. To “prepare,” I even checked Google to understand how my own sign, Cancer, is supposed to relate to Aries — the sign featured in the watch I was about to see. According to the internet, the relationship between Cancer and Aries isn’t exactly harmonious. Honestly, as I browsed through these astrological explanations, my eyes started to glaze over. But as a watch enthusiast, I was more curious about the craftsmanship and mechanics than the star charts.
Astrology-themed watches are not new territory for Vacheron Constantin. As one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious watchmakers, founded in 1755, the brand has long drawn inspiration from the cosmos, blending complex watchmaking with exquisite artistry. One notable example is the Berkley Grand Complication — a watch that integrates multiple calendar systems including the Chinese calendar, showcasing an extraordinary fusion of Eastern and Western cultural elements. Another remarkable piece is the 1755: L’Esprit des Cabinotiers celestial clock, featuring hand-engraved celestial spheres that celebrate the brand’s 250th anniversary.
The new Métiers d’Art collection takes its cues from a 2021 unique creation by the brand’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers workshop: the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery. For this series, Vacheron Constantin removed the minute repeater and sky chart functions but retained the core technical beauty of the Calibre 2160 — a peripherally wound tourbillon movement still rare in today’s market.
This Calibre 2160 movement stands as a masterpiece of modern horology. It operates at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) and boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve, powered by a 22K gold peripheral rotor. Compared to other peripheral tourbillon calibers, such as Breguet’s 581 and 581SQ — which are thinner but larger in diameter — Vacheron’s Calibre 2160 achieves a more compact footprint. The movement’s finishing features Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and brushed surfaces, reflecting a high degree of craftsmanship. Though it may not have the hyper-exaggerated hand-finishing found in some independent watchmakers’ pieces, it perfectly balances artisanal quality with relatively larger-scale production.
One of the most striking features visible from the front is the beautifully balanced tourbillon cage. While tourbillons have traditionally been appreciated mostly for their mechanical function, here the cage itself becomes a stunning object within the watch, with symmetrical design and a blued screw that helps wearers track elapsed seconds precisely.
The watch case and buckle are crafted in white gold and set with approximately 3.87 carats of baguette-cut blue sapphires. Ninety-six stones decorate the bezel, lugs, and crown in a subtle yet luxurious arrangement. This restrained approach contrasts sharply with more maximalist gem-set watches, like the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, which uses 25 carats of rubies and sapphire crystal elements to create a visually imposing effect. The Tribute to the Celestial’s sapphire setting feels much more wearable and balanced, with a 39mm diameter and a slim 10.7mm thickness — dimensions that emphasize comfort without sacrificing presence.
But the real star is the dial. Although I experienced the Aries model, the entire collection features twelve distinct dials, each representing a Zodiac sign with intricate hand-guilloché patterns. The constellations are mapped out in brilliant-cut diamonds, creating a three-dimensional constellation effect that is both visually captivating and technically astounding.
The dial starts as a thin 18K 5N rose gold disc, onto which the outlines of the zodiac sign and its constellation are carefully marked. The dial undergoes sunburst brushing, followed by the addition of opaline details for the four “human” signs. Next comes the painstaking hand-guilloché of the zodiac symbol, completed before the aperture for the tourbillon is cut. The dial is then covered with blue lacquer, selectively machined to reveal the golden base beneath and create fine lines of contrast. White gold indices are hand-applied, while the minute track and brand logo are printed and transfer-stamped. Finally, brilliant-cut diamonds are meticulously set to mark the stars within the constellation, completing this labor-intensive artistic process.
The creation of each dial is a collaborative effort among multiple artisans, as no single person is responsible for the entire process. One misstep at any stage could undo days of meticulous work. The result is a dial of exceptional depth and complexity, with diamond-set stars that break free from traditional pavé or single-stone applications, adding to the watch’s uniqueness.
Priced at approximately $215,000 before taxes, the Tribute to the Celestial is clearly targeted at collectors who value a blend of technical mastery and artistic expression. If I had relied solely on astrology to guide my opinion, I might have struggled with this Aries-themed watch as a Cancer. But as a horology enthusiast, I walked away impressed, deeply appreciating the skill, design, and narrative behind the watch. Furthermore, Vacheron Constantin’s decision to produce this as an open series means that collectors will have access to these remarkable pieces for several years beyond the brand’s 270th anniversary.
Ultimately, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial collection transcends mere astrological gimmicks. It stands as a testament to how traditional watchmaking techniques can be harmoniously combined with cultural storytelling and artistic innovation. Whether or not you believe in Zodiac signs, this watch offers a rich, multi-layered experience: a celebration of time, craftsmanship, and the mysteries of the cosmos.
For those interested in exploring this exquisite collection further, I recommend visiting Vacheron Constantin’s official website or reading our detailed introduction to the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial series.